“Two households, both alike in dignity,
In fair Verona, where we lay our scene…”
I was fortunate to be invited to lunch this week with
Italian winemakers Andrea Sartori and Franco Bernabei who create the wines of Sartori di Verona. Over lunch they discussed their philosophy of
winemaking and shared 7 of their lovely wines.
The Sartori family has been making wine for 4 generations,
and Franco Bernabei has been a consulting winemaker with Sartori di Verona for
11 years. They want their wines to reflect
the character of the grapes as well as the uniqueness of the region (its terroir). They minimize the use of pesticides and
fertilizers to keep the soil healthy and produce high quality fruit. Bernabei says that when you drink the wine “you
should feel like you’re chewing a grape.”
They focus on elegance and balance, and it shows in their wine!
The biggest surprise for me was the Pinot Grigio. I’m usually not a fan of these, since many of
them have so little flavor. Not this
one! This is quite possibly the best
Pinot Grigio I’ve ever had. It retains
its crisp freshness while having a lot of juicy fruit on the palate. So yummy. (Update: I'm told the Pinot Grigio is available at certain HEB locations in the Houston area.)
The most unusual wine we tasted, called “Ferdi,” is made
from dried Garganega grapes and fermented on the skins (very unusual for a white). The inspiration for this wine was to make a
“white Amarone.” Amarones are made from
dried grapes and very concentrated in flavor.
As a result, Ferdi is a full-bodied white wine that can hold its own
when paired with heavier foods that would normally require a red wine. This is a “super white” – a white wine that
can do nearly everything a red can. And
it’s delicious.
The only wine we tasted that I know for certain is available
in Houston is the Sartori Amarone della Valpolicella. Amarones can be overpowering because of their
intensity and sometimes high alcohol; they often need to breathe for a long
time or to be served with very hearty food.
This one was rich in flavor, but easy to drink. It maintained its fresh, crisp fruitiness
along with the signature earthy flavors of an Amarone. Spec’s in Houston sells the 2008 vintage for
$42. It is also available by the glass
or bottle at Sorrento Ristorante on Westheimer just east of Montrose.
drying grapes for Amarone
We also tasted a Pinot Noir, a Valpolicella, and 2 other
Amarones. All the wines had a lovely balance
of fresh fruit and earthiness, with good acidity. These are incredibly tasty wines, food-friendly,
and a great value for the price. If you
run across a Sartori wine, get it! I don’t
think you’ll be disappointed. And if I
learn more about where to get them I will post the information here.
Here are the details on all the wines we tasted:
2012 Sartori Famly
Pinot Grigio
Region: Delle Venezie
IGT
Price: around $12
Tasting Notes: Pale
yellow-green in color, dry, medium body, aromas of citrus, sweet stone fruit,
hint of melon, hint of floral, high acid.
The grapes are harvested early for a high acid level, then fermented on
the skins for added fruit aroma and flavor.
The wine does not undergo malolactic fermentation.
“Ferdi”
Grape: Garganega
Region: Bianco
Veronese IGT
Price: around $14
Tasting Notes: These
Garganega grapes are harvested slightly early to retain their acidity and dried
for 40 days. Then the juice is
fermented, partly in stainless steel and partly in oak, after which it matures
on its lees (the dead yeast cells) for several months. The
result is a full-bodied white wine with aromas of rich apricot, subtle citrus,
and floral, balanced with a bit of earthiness.
2010 Sartori Pinot
Noir
Region: Provincia di
Pavia IGT
Tasting Notes: Aromas
of cherry, spice, strawberry, cranberry, a hint of vanilla, mushroom, medium-high acid, low tannin, with a long finish.
Again, this had a great balance of light, crisp, fruity, and earthy qualities. (The winemakers pointed out that this region is located at nearly the same latitude as Burgundy.)
2009 I Saltari Valpolicella
Grapes: Corvina,
Rondinella, Corvinone, Croatina
Region: Valpolicella Superiore
DOC
Price: around $14
Tasting Notes: This
one is darker and heavier than the Pinot Noir, richer and jammier with red and
black fruit aromas and flavors. It also
has more musky, earthy qualities, like tobacco or leather, with a hint of
vanilla.
2010 Sartori
Amarone della Valpolicella
Grapes: Corvina
Veronese, Corvinone, Rondinella, Oseleta
Region: Amarone della
Valpolicella DOC
Tasting Notes: This
smells and tastes of a combination of fresh and dried fruits, bright herbs and
cedar, with some hints of cocoa and spice. Surprisingly easy to drink for an Amarone.
2007 Sartori Corte
Bra Amarone della Valpolicella
Grapes: Corvina
Veronese, Corvinone, Rondinella, Oseleta
Region: Amarone della
Valpolicella Classico DOC
Tasting Notes: These
grapes come from a single vineyard (“Corte Bra”) where the vines are 25 or more
years old. This was another great
Amarone, with fresh and dried fruit character, and surprisingly smooth and easy
to drink for an Amarone of its age.
2001 I Saltari
Amarone della Valpolicella
Grapes: Corvina,
Rondinella, Corvinone, Croatina
Region: Amarone della
Valpolicella DOC
Tasting Notes: This
Amarone is made from grapevines that are 50 or more years old. It displays very concentrated dried fruit – raisins,
cherries, figs – with herbs, sweet spice, and cedar. The elegance and balance that Sartori strives
for may be most evident in these older, more powerful wines.
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