The debate over bottle closures will likely be reinvigorated
this week, as Italian authorities have recently approved the use of synthetic
corks and screw caps on DOC and DOCG wines (the top 2 quality levels). Here’s the article from Decanter: “Italy approves synthetic closures for DOC, DOCG.”
I thought I’d provide a brief overview of some pros and cons
of different bottle closures.
Personally, I prefer natural cork or screw cap, but I certainly wouldn’t
refuse to buy or drink a wine just because of the closure it uses. A screw cap doesn’t necessarily indicate a
bad wine, and a natural cork doesn’t necessarily indicate a good wine. The biggest issues with using an alternative closure on a DOCG wine, like a fine Chianti, will be oxygen and aging potential.
Natural Cork
The pros are that natural cork is a renewable resource (it
comes from the bark of the cork tree and can be removed without killing the
tree) and is biodegradable. It also
allows wine to age slowly over time, because its porous nature lets a small
amount of oxygen circulate through. This
is key for fine wine that is meant to be aged.
The primary con is cork taint (TCA). Depending on which study you believe, cork
taint affects between 1% and 7% of all wines that use natural cork. Cork taint creates musty, moldy, or damp
cardboard smells in the wine and diminishes the fruit character.
Synthetic Cork
The main reason to use synthetic cork is that the
possibility of cork taint is greatly reduced or eliminated. Some also argue that these corks don’t dry
out like natural cork, but I’ve read differing opinions on that question.
Oxygen exchange presents a significant issue with synthetic
corks. Some types seem to let in more
oxygen than natural corks, and others much less. Too much oxygen will age or spoil the wine
quickly. Too little, and the wine could
suffer from reduction, which is a wine fault that occurs when there’s not
enough oxygen present. I usually assume
a wine with a synthetic cork is not meant to be held for very long before
drinking. The aging issue highlights why
the above article is so important, since fine Chiantis are often cellared for a
number of years. At the least, the
winemakers would need a good understanding of exactly how porous the synthetics
are before using them.
Screw Cap
Screw caps used to be an indication of a cheap, poor quality
wine, but that is changing. Many quality
wine producers in Australia and New Zealand are now using these closures on
their wines.
The screw cap offers the same protection against cork taint as
a synthetic cork, combined with easy opening. Oxygen exchange is an issue here too
though. Screw capped wines can become
reductive, and of course, a screw cap would not work for a fine wine that’s
meant to age.
Further Reading
I’ve only hit the high points on these issues. If you want to get into more detail, here are
some resources:
The Wikipedia page on Alternative Wine Closures
“The Carbon Trail of Closures” by Jamie Goode (2007)
(Hint: cork wins)
“Innovative Packaging for the Wine Industry: A Look at Wine Closures” by Denise Gardner
(2008)
“Effects of Wine Bottle Closure Type on Consumer Purchase
Intent and Price Expectation” by Anna B. Marin and Catherine A. Durham (2007)
(Consumers expect screw capped wines to be cheaper than those with corks.)
“Making Sense of Reduction,” from PinotFile (November, 2011)
“Screwcaps and Reduction in Wine,” reader feedback from
JancisRobinson.com (2004)
“Wine Review: Stopping Method Solves Wine Bottle Closure Issues”
by Bennet Bodenstein (2012)
(New closure method – the Zork?)
I’d like to know what the price difference is for the wine
producer for cork vs. synthetic vs. screw cap.
I haven’t found numbers yet, but I’ll post them if I do. And obviously, I need to find out more about
this Zork thing!
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