Most people who are interested in Texas wine have heard of Messina Hof winery. It was established in 1977 by Paul and Merrill Bonarrigo, whose son Paul and his wife Karen are now carrying on the family tradition. The wines have won many awards over the years, and the Bonarrigos and Messina Hof have been instrumental in the growth and promotion of the Texas wine industry. In 1977 there were 3 wineries in Texas - now there are 300!
Messina Hof is the first winery I ever visited. This was about six years ago, before I knew anything about wine, except that I liked to drink it. My husband and I had just become interested in wine and were still trying to figure out what we liked. When we toured Messina Hof and tasted the wines, the Cabernet Franc made a huge impression. Not only was it a grape we had never heard of, but we absolutely loved the wine - we were fascinated by the earthy/herbal qualities we had never experienced. That visit sparked my interest in the many flavors of wine and fueled my desire to learn more about it.
Last night I visited Messina Hof again for their Moonlit Harvest and Dinner. It was a beautiful evening - surprisingly cool and breezy for August in Texas. We arrived about 6pm for tasting, picking, grape stomping, dinner, and then a special announcement!
Wine on Tap
It was fun to see the innovations since my last visit. Messina Hof has been experimenting with "wine on tap." This works a bit like beer from a keg. The wine is taken straight from the barrel and placed into something similar to a beer keg, and attached to a tap. This is the system they use in their tasting room, and it lets you taste the wine as it would taste straight from the barrel. It's a neat experience for the consumer, since the flavor is different from what you taste out of the bottle.
It's also efficient for restaurants and wine bars. Restaurants often have to throw away leftover wine, when a bottle has been open for several days and begins to
oxidize. The tap system prevents this waste, since it keeps the wine away from air as it's being used (the same idea as
bag-in-box wines). Once the keg is tapped, the wine stays fresh for 2 months or so. This prevents waste and saves money for the restaurant. We tasted the Cabernet Franc on tap, and it was just as good as I remembered!
Harvest Time and Grape Stomp
After a few instructions about how to use the knives (the mixing of wine and sharp objects requires careful attention!), we were set loose in the vineyard to fill our bins with bunches of Lenoir (aka Black Spanish) grapes. These grapes are destined to become Sofia Marie Rosé.
Messina Hof makes 4 different wines from the Lenoir grape. The grapes increase in sugar content as they hang on the vine (more on that
here). More sugar in the grapes translates to either more sugar or more alcohol (or both) in the finished wine, so different wines require grapes with different sugar levels. So the Lenoir grapes are harvested at 4 different times to make these 4 wines.
After the picking, Monsignor Malinowski offered a few words of blessing and led a prayer for a continued fruitful harvest. In today's world, especially if you live in a big city, it's easy to forget that wine is an agricultural product, and growers are still dependent on nature.
Once the grapes are picked and blessed, it's time to stomp! While most wine today is not made by people stomping grapes (we have machines for that now), Messina Hof still celebrates the tradition on harvest day. I'm glad they do, because it's a great reminder of wine's connection with the past (after all, it's been around for thousands of years), and it's fun! They'll even let you put your grapey footprints on a T-shirt. (That's my husband peeking out from behind my T-shirt.)
If you've never harvested grapes, I highly recommend it. There's no better way to expand your knowledge of wine than to go to a winery, see how the wine is made, look at the vines, and if you're lucky - pick some grapes yourself. Messina Hof does a great job of making this a fun and educational event.
Messina Hof is Expanding
At dinner, we heard some exciting news first hand: Messina Hof is expanding into Grapevine, Texas. In late 2014 they will open a new urban winery in historic downtown Grapevine, joining the
Grapevine Wine Trail. Messina Hof's newest location will be in the Wallis Hotel, and will include a 2-story space with a wine production facility, a retail shop, and a tasting room with 18 wine taps.
Grapevine Mayor William Tate spoke at dinner to welcome Messina Hof to Grapevine, and praised the Bonarrigos for their pioneering work and their involvement in promoting Texas wine, through Grapevine's annual Grapefest and in their participation in the Grapevine-based Texas Wine and Grape Grower's Association. Mayor Tate has led the city of Grapevine for an amazing stretch of 39 years and has successfully positioned his city as a wine hub in the state, which is fitting for a city named after its wild grapevines.
What We Tasted
I can't finish this post without adding a few notes on the wines we tasted. Messina Hof grows Lenoir in its main vineyard in Bryan and sources the rest of its grapes from other vineyards around Texas.
Blanc du Bois Private Reserve:
Blanc du Bois is a familiar grape in Texas. This one is light, refreshing, and easy to drink. Though it is dry, it's very fruity, so I think it would please a wide variety of palates.
Sofia Marie Rosé:
The Lenoir grapes we picked last night will become this year's Sofia Marie. This wine is named after Paul and Karen's daughter. It's deep in color for a rosé, but still light and crisp. It's ever-so-slightly sweet with 1% residual sugar (the threshold where most people can just begin to detect sweetness). The tart and jammy, yet earthy flavors are nicely balanced.
GSM (Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvedre):
I'm a big fan of GSM wines in general, especially ones from the traditional home of that blend in the Southern Rhone Valley of France, and this example could hold its own against any of those. I love the aromas of earth and baking spice in this dry red. Messina Hof's GSM will only be available in restaurants, and is just now making its way into the Houston area, so I'll post an update when I know where you can try some. (Better yet, just visit the winery!)
Paolo Cabernet-Merlot Blend:
This Bordeaux-style blend is an all-around good red wine. Smooth and approachable, yet full-bodied and steak-worthy.
"Glory" Moscato Mistella (Late Harvest):
Since the grapes develop more sugar as they hang on the vine, a "late harvest" wine has lots of sugar in the grapes and tastes sweet. This wine is very sweet, but has a good amount of acidity to balance the sugar. It has the typical Moscato flavors and tastes sweet without being cloying or candy-like.
Papa Paolo Port:
Messina Hof makes a great port-style wine, which was one of my clearest memories from my first visit. Most ports are fortified with grape brandy up to the standard level of 18 - 20% alcohol, so they sometimes taste strong and harsh. Messina Hof uses a process that allows the yeast to do the work of fermentation to get the alcohol to the correct level, without needing additional brandy, so their port is super smooth. The aromas and flavors of dark fruits (black cherry, blackberry) and chocolate, combined with lots of sweetness, and acid to balance, just can't be beat.
If you're interested in Texas wine, a visit to
Messina Hof is essential. The main location in Bryan is an easy day trip from DFW, Houston, or Austin. With their second location in Fredericksburg and the expansion into Grapevine coming soon, it's becoming easier than ever to get to know Messina Hof. I appreciate their interest in community and wine education, and of course, they make a good glass of wine!
