Italy in Spring on the Cheap: Fontana Candida Terre dei Grifi Frascati

This week I sampled Fontana Candida Terre dei Grifi Frascati, 2012.  It comes from Frascati Secco DOC in the province of Lazio, Rome.  It's a simple weeknight wine, so I paired it with something simple I made for a weeknight dinner.  More on the food in a minute.  First the scoop on the wine.

Grapes:
50% Malvasia di Candia
30% Trebbiano Toscano
10% Malvasia del Lazio
10% Greco

Vinification:  Fermented in stainless steel, then allowed to rest on the lees (dead yeast cells) for 4 months.

Color:  Pale yellow with a hint of green

On the nose:  Citrus with a little pineapple and some minerality.  Just a hint of that slightly "bready" aroma you get with Champagne, due to the lees aging.

On the palate:  Dry, medium body, high acid.

Alcohol:  13%

Now for the food pairing!  I'm a big fan of making random leftovers into something new.  We had hamburger buns leftover from Memorial Day, some eggplant, onion, and spinach in the fridge that were threatening to get funky, some leftover marinara sauce, and basil growing in the yard.  Time for a roasted veggie sandwich! 

I was happy to match an Italian wine with Italian-ish food, and white wine is often a nice choice for a vegetarian meal, but I was worried about the marinara.  I would normally go for a red wine with marinara sauce, because the strong tomato-and-herb flavor can overwhelm white wines.  I needn't have worried.  The amount of sauce on the sandwich didn't phase this wine a bit.  The wine's strong acidity came through, and this ended up a lovely pairing.  The earthy sweetness of the roasted veggies with the brightness of the basil and the fresh crunch of the spinach worked really well with the bright-fruity-earthy qualities in the wine.

To see how far I could push the tomato sauce match-up, I ate a spoonful by itself and then took a sip of the wine.  The wine's flavors were muted, but not totally obscured.  If you're a staunch white-wine-only person (it makes me sad to even type that), you could have this with spaghetti in a pinch.

So here's a recommendation for an inexpensive, weeknight wine, which can pair with all but the strongest of flavors.  It's $8 at the big Spec's on Bay Area Blvd.

(And for those of you with very sharp eyes, yes that IS a Messina Hof tasting glass!)

Tasting Emiliana's Organic and Biodynamic Wine from Chile

I recently tasted 3 wines from Emiliana, the first producer of a certified biodynamic wine in Chile.  (A few weeks ago I wrote about the Top 3 Things to Know about Biodynamic Wines, so check that out if you’re unfamiliar.)  I paired the wines with several different foods:  goat cheese, oil-cured green olives (these are milder and less acidic than the typical marinated varieties), smoked turkey, rosemary-lavender bread (this is a southern French flatbread topped with herbs and olive oil), and Mario Batali’s eggplant caponata*.  Grab your Chilean Wine Cheat Sheet and let’s taste!

Wine:  Novas Gran Reserva
Grape:  100% Sauvignon Blanc
Growing Method:  Made with organically grown grapes
Region:  DO San Antonio Valley
Nose:  Herbal, grassy, mineral, and citrus aromas with a hint of asparagus.
Palate:  Very mineral and herbal, high acid, hint of asparagus, med alcohol, med-to-long finish
Pairings:  The goat cheese was an excellent match, since the grassy flavors of the cheese and the wine complemented each other, and the acidity of the wine cut through the creaminess of the cheese.  The olives, turkey, and herb bread were good matches as well, which isn’t surprising since Sauvignon Blanc is such a versatile wine.  It was not quite as good with the caponata.
Price:  Average price is $13, but I haven’t yet found a seller in the Houston area.

I liked this wine, and it scores points for value and versatility.  If you’re into Sauvignon Blancs, you’ll want to know that it’s more of an old-world style, and less fruit-forward than a typical New Zealand example.

Wine:  Natura Cabernet Sauvignon

Grape:  85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, 6% Syrah

Growing Method:  Made with organically grown grapes and sustainably farmed

Region:  DO Central Valley 

Nose:  Rich, ripe black fruits, a hint of sweet spice, tobacco, vanilla

Palate:  Medium acid, fruity up front, strong tannin, a bit lean.  Opens up as it breathes.

Pairings:  The goat cheese, olives, and caponata were the star pairings here. The tartness of the goat cheese and the caponata matched the acidity in the wine and all 3 became smoother and richer as a result.  Cheese also famously smoothes out tannin, so that was a bonus.  The salty olives brought out the fruit flavors in the wine.  The bread worked well, and though the turkey was nearly overpowered, the fact that it was smoked highlighted the smokiness in the wine and allowed the turkey to hold its own in this match-up. 

Price:  Average price $10, but I haven’t yet found a seller in the Houston area.

This Natura Cabernet blend is also a good value.  Like the Sauvignon Blanc, this wine falls somewhere between old and new world styles – it’s fruity, yet not as rich and juicy as a California Cabernet.  Decant it or let it breathe in your glass for 15 minutes or so, and it really opens up.  

Wine:  Coyam 2010

Grape:  38% Syrah, 27% Carmenere, 21% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Mourvedre, 1% Malbec

Growing Method:  Biodynamic

Region:  DO Colchagua Valley.  

Nose:  I wanted to smell this forever.  Red and black fruits, cinnamon and chocolate, tobacco and leather, vanilla.

Palate:  The flavors on the palate echoed the aromas on the nose, but weren’t quite as rich or complex.  I suspect this is a big wine that needs time.  It really opened up as it breathed, and became as rich and wonderful as the nose had led me to believe it could be.  Decant this one, or hold it for 5 (or even 10?) years.  

Pairings:  The goat cheese won again, rounding out the tannins of the wine.  The bread and caponata shone here too. The currants, cinnamon, and chocolate in Batali’s recipe brought out the fruitiness and spice in the wine, for an unexpectedly amazing combination.

Price:  This one we can get in Houston!  Spec’s carries it, but not at every location.  It’s $30, so get a bottle for a special occasion and make that caponata to go with it!  And consider cellaring it for a few years, because it will only get better.

As far as I can tell, organic and biodynamic wines are not significantly different from other wines, in the sense that there is not a tell-tale organic or biodynamic taste or a certain quality that indicates the grapes were grown that way.  However, these wines fit with my general experience of organic wines, which is that the grapes have been treated well, so the wines demonstrate an attention to quality at whatever price point they may be. 

Even though we can only get 1 of these wines at the moment, keep Emiliana on your radar.  I suspect Houston will get more from them in the future, and I’ll be happy when we do!

*Note on the caponata recipe:  I like my eggplant very well cooked, so I let my caponata simmer on the stove about 30 minutes longer than the recipe suggested.  As it cooked, I added extra liquid as needed to keep everything from burning – first white wine, then some tomato sauce, then water until everything was as cooked as I wanted it to be. 

See the full collection of the wine cheat sheets here!

A Sparkler from Spain for a Weeknight or a Picnic

On a whim, I recently picked up a bottle of Blanc Pescador from the Spec's on Bay Area.  It was only $8, I had never had it before, and it looked interesting.  I'm glad I tried it, because it's a good, cheap weeknight pick.  

Blanc Pescador is a dry, white, lightly sparkling wine.  It's labeled "petillant" (the French term for lightly sparkling), so it's about half as bubbly as a regular sparkling wine. It comes from the region of Spain where Cava is produced, it uses the same grapes as Cava (Macabeo, Parellada, and Xarel-lo), and the cork actually says Cava on it.  (Cava is Spain's answer to Champagne.)  Like Cava, Blanc Pescador is dry, with aromas of citrus and minerals, but Blanc Pescador is lighter and simpler (and cheaper).  If you're familiar with Portugal's Vinho Verde, Blanc Pescador might remind you of it, though Vinho Verdes are often sweeter.  

Because of its high acidity Blanc Pescador could pair with many types of food.  It could cut through the richness of a buttery or creamy sauce, and its simple flavors would complement a lighter chicken or fish dish or a salad.  It would pair perfectly with picnic foods, and I've put it on my list of go-to wines to take to Miller Outdoor Theater.  With only 11.5% alcohol it's also a good choice for drinking in hot weather (high alcohol and heat don't mix well).  This is definitely a plus when the Houston summer is right around the corner!

Also check out:
Champagne 101
The 2-Minute Guide to Bubbles

Top 3 Things to Know about Biodynamic Wine

Biodynamic farming for wine grapes is a growing trend.  Some believe it makes better wine, others think it’s crazy.  So what is it, and does it work?  Read on!

1)  It goes beyond organic.

Biodynamic farming follows all the guidelines of organic farming (such as avoiding synthetic chemicals, fertilizing with compost, using natural pest deterrents, etc.), plus more.  Biodynamic growers practice sustainable agriculture and view the vineyard as an holistic, interconnected ecosystem.  

The Chilean winemaker Emiliana produced the first biodynamic wine in Chile and has a great demonstration of a biodynamic vineyard on its website.  This interactive virtual vineyard shows how organic growing practices, crop rotation, the natural features of the land, energy efficiency, and farm animals are integrated to maintain a balanced and sustainable system.

Emiliana's Interactive Biodynamic Vineyard

Sounds great, right?  Here’s where some people become skeptical:  Biodynamic growers also follow a farming schedule that is influenced by astrological calendars and lunar cycles, and use specific preparations for spraying and fertilizing, which some find bizarre.  For instance, one of the compost recipes calls for stuffing chamomile blossoms into small intestines from cattle, burying them in the autumn to decompose, and digging them up in the spring.

2)  It has its own international governing body.

The U.S. government regulates the term “organic,” but does not regulate the terms “sustainable” and “biodynamic.”  Biodynamic wines are certified by an internationally recognized governing body called the Demeter Association.  The Demeter Association certifies that growers meet biodynamic standards through their Demeter Certification. Because the Demeter Certification uses the USDA National Organic Program standard as a base upon which additional biodynamic requirements are built, growers earning the Demeter Certification can also be certified organic.  

Note the difference between “biodynamic wine” and “wine made from biodynamic grapes.”  Biodynamic grapes were grown biodynamically, but the winemaker may not have followed the stringent rules of biodynamic winemaking.  The same distinction applies to organic grapes vs. organic wine.  (The difference is often whether sulfites have been added to the wine.  Sulfites are used as a preservative in most wines, but organic and biodynamic wines cannot use them.)

3)  The wines score better.

Biodynamic growers say they have adopted the practice because it makes their wines better.  Skeptics reply, “of course they would say that” and dismiss biodynamic agriculture as superstition or a marketing tool. However, in blind tastings, biodynamic wines have outperformed wines made from conventionally raised grapes, and experts find that biodynamic wines better express terroir (the idea that a wine should reflect all the natural elements which impacted the grapes as they grew, and which are unique to each vineyard).

There is not yet a scientific reason why the unique biodynamic preparations would make better wines, but experts rightly point out that because biodynamic growers must pay closer attention to the grapes and take better care of the soil, the grapes are raised in optimal conditions and can make a better wine.  

Conclusion

I’m a big believer in organic farming and the way it keeps the soil healthier and more productive than conventional/industrial methods.  It makes sense to me that organic farming leads to higher quality produce, so I’m not surprised that organic grapes would make better wine.  The addition of sustainability and energy efficiency is a positive thing too.  I don’t understand how the biodynamic calendar, lunar cycles, or special preparations make a difference. So I’d be interested to see the results of a blind tasting comparing organic wines to biodynamic.

In an upcoming post I’ll be featuring 3 wines from Emiliana, the biodynamic/organic winery mentioned above, so I’ll let you know how they taste!

Have you tried any biodynamic wines?  What did you think of them?

Wine and Antioxidants - Why Wine in Moderation is Good for You

This post was contributed by Jenni Gunter.

Due to a wealth of recent studies, the scientific community is increasingly reaching the conclusion that drinking wine (in moderation, of course) could be very good for your health. If you consider the odd glass of vino to be a guilty and unhealthy indulgence – then read on. You are about to be pleasantly surprised…

Free Radicals and Antioxidants

You have probably heard of ‘free radicals’. Since their discovery, these unstable oxidized molecules have been subjected to intense scrutiny by the world of health and nutritional science, with the invariable conclusion that free radicals are responsible not only for much age-related bodily wear and tear, but also for the kind of cell mutation and degradation which causes many of the most devastating diseases. In the last few years, research has shown that the body can use ‘antioxidants’ to combat the action of free radicals – leading to the growth of a lucrative industry in antioxidants. Vitamin companies like Healthy America sell “Universal antioxidants” to “provide support for a…wide range of bodily systems”, and companies like Vitamix promote their product by advertising its potential to create “Antioxidant rich smoothie[s]”. However, one of the richest sources of antioxidants comes in the form of wine.

Resveratrol and the Heart

A 2007 study discovered that red wine is rich in antioxidants and, when consumed in moderation, is beneficial to overall health. “Red wine provides general oxidative protection” the researchers concluded, “…via the increase in antioxidant status”. One of the most powerful antioxidants found within red wine is a polyphenol called resveratrol. Resveratrol comes from the skins of red grapes and appears to be rather fantastic for the cardiovascular system. The Linus Pauling Institute speaks of “significant reductions in cardiovascular disease risk” for red wine drinkers as a direct result of resveratrol’s multiplicity of heart-healthy actions. This has led to red wine becoming the tipple of choice for those who wish to look after their hearts. However, a University of Barcelona study found that white wines are not deficient in this area either. White wines can help to reduce low-grade cardiovascular inflammation and raise levels of ‘good’ HDL cholesterol- both of which are vital in the maintenance of a healthy heart. Dr Curtis Ellison of Boston University noted that the study showed the ways in which “both red and white wine help prevent heart disease”.

Champagne for Dementia

Champagne is proving to have exciting antioxidant properties as well. It is believed that two red grape varieties which abound in Champagne – pinot noir and pinot meunier – deliver a wealth of antioxidant phenols into the beverage. These in turn give Champagne some phenomenal impacts upon the brain. A study conducted by the UK’s University of Reading found that a glass of Champagne a day could even help to stave off dementia. The study focused upon the action of antioxidant phenolic compounds within Champagne. According to the University, “these compounds work by modulating signals in the hippocampus and cortex, which control memory and learning”, going on to add that regular moderate consumption of champagne could not only stimulate these signals, but work to prevent neural degradation – concluding that “Champagne may…help prevent the cognitive losses that occur during typical and atypical brain ageing".

Be Responsible

The benefits of drinking wine in moderation are many. However, the keyword is ‘moderation’. Doctor David J. Hanson, a proponent of the health benefits of alcohol, is very clear upon the topic. While he speaks enthusiastically about the health advantages gained through responsible consumption of alcohol, he goes on to state that “Drinking any of these alcoholic beverages heavily or abusively is associated with poor health and reduced longevity”. The consequences of overdoing it can be devastating. As Rehabs.com point out, “Alcoholism is a deadly disease, taking the lives of 37,500 Americans due to alcoholic liver disease and other alcohol-related causes”. So be extremely careful when imbibing routinely. Make sure to do so in moderation – no more than one or two units per day – and desist the moment you feel that you may be becoming dependent upon your evening tipple.

Indulge Your Health

For those who are able to drink responsibly, the health benefits of wine are too good to ignore. No longer need you feel that a glass of wine of an evening is a ‘guilty indulgence’. In fact, the evidence points overwhelmingly to the contrary. Weighing up the evidence, the Doctor’s Health Press published a recent article stating that “moderate drinkers are living longer than those who abstain”, and a wealth of studies into the topic have found similar results. So keep tasting, enjoying, and learning about wine – it could be the best thing you ever do for your health!

This article contains general information about wine and medical research.  It should not be treated as medical advice.

Wine Infographic: Chilean Wine Cheat Sheet

The next edition in the Cheat Sheet series - Chilean Wine!  See the full collection here

To see the Cheat Sheet in full size…
…in Internet Explorer, right click on it and select “open in new tab.”
…in Chrome, right click on it and select “open link in new tab.”
…in Firefox, right click on it and select “view image.”   

2 Affordable Italian Reds from the Whole Foods Twitter Tasting

If you've missed the Twitter Tastings organized by Whole Foods Market, you're missing some fun. People from all over taste the same wine and tweet their thoughts. This time around, I was particularly interested in the 2 Italian reds they featured:  Monrosso Chianti (2010) and Verrazzano Rosso, a red blend also from Tuscany (2012).

Cue the Chianti Cheat Sheet:

These 2 Italian wines, Monrosso Chianti and Verrazzano Rosso, come from the same region - Tuscany. Chiantis rank at the highest level of Italy's wine classification system, DOCG.  The Verrazzano Rosso is ranked lower, at the IGT level.  A lower ranking can be both a blessing and a curse, because even though it's ranked technically as lower quality, there are fewer regulations at the IGT level.  DOCGs are strictly regulated in terms of grape variety, alcohol content, aging, etc.  Whereas, the IGT-level winemaker has more freedom to experiment.  For instance, the Monrosso Chianti has to use at least 85% Sangiovese grape juice. The Verrazzano website tells me that their red blend mixes Sangiovese with Merlot (but doesn't give the percentages).

But how do they taste??

Monrosso Chianti 2010 -- Aromas/flavors of cherry, cranberry, and vanilla, with some earthy qualities. Medium, rounded tannins.  Medium-plus acidity, 13.5% alcohol.  Surprisingly smooth and easy to drink for a Chianti.  Chiantis are known for pairing well with food, but this wine could easily be drunk on its own.  It could go with anything from roasted chicken with herbs, to mushroom risotto, to spaghetti and meatballs.  It's totally all-purpose.  It even paired well with an apple-berry crumble that I made, based on this recipe (I used cranberries).

Verrazzano Rosso 2012 -- Earthier, spicier, richer than the Monrosso.  Aromas/flavors of red and black fruits, cocoa, and spice.  Higher in tannin than the Monrosso, but a bit lower in acid.  13.5% alcohol. Heavier, but could still be drunk on its own or paired with food.  This really opened up nicely after it had a chance to breathe in the glass for about 15 minutes.  I'd pair this one with something a little richer and heavier - pot roast, roasted lamb, or something with tomatoes and herbs.

I liked both of these wines.  The best part:  they are less than $15 at Whole Foods.  They are a great value at that price, and versatile enough to go with whatever weeknight meal you're cooking.  Give them a try!

Whole Foods Twitter Tasting Tonight!

Whole Foods has organized another Twitter tasting of Italian wines this evening from 7-8 pm.  Head to Whole Foods and taste these 4 featured wines, which are all under $16.  Then join the conversation about them on Twitter using #WFMwine.

• Caposaldo Pinot Grigio
• Monrosso Chianti 
• Verrazzano Rosso 
• Presto Prosecco

I'll be tasting the reds with some of my favorite wine drinkers, and tweeting my thoughts from @ClearLakeWine.

Here are Whole Foods' notes on the wines I'll be tasting:

Monrosso Chianti – Lavender and cranberry aromas blend in this soft, rich ruby red wine. Gentle tannins, abundant fruit, and a well-balanced finish characterize this textbook Chianti.
Suggested Pairings: Parmigiano Reggiano, grilled salmon, roasted lamb chops, pasta carbonara, pizza, and Puttanesca Pasta

Verrazzano Rosso – This red has complex aromas of fresh fruits and violets followed by Tuscan herbs, black currant and pomegranate flavors that move to a smooth finish.
Suggested Pairings: Pecorino Toscano, osso buco, gnocchi, hummus, rosemary flatbread, and Sun-Dried Tomato and Salami Couscous Salad

Join us tonight!

Burgundy, Bottle Aging, and Tertiary Aromas

I’ve pointed out before that many of us keep our wine for too long, and that most wines don’t improve after the first few years in the bottle.  Of course, there are exceptions to that rule, and one of them is Burgundy. This week I attended a tasting, hosted by the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB), of older vintages of Burgundy from 1996 to 2006.  These wines were amazingly fresh and fruity for their age.  Some of them were still improving and could last another several years (or 10). 

Let’s briefly review what happens when wine ages:

1. The molecules of acid and alcohol bind together in new and exciting ways, creating additional, more complex flavor and aroma compounds. (more on that here)
2. Tannins soften and mellow (and eventually begin to precipitate out of the wine, creating sediment).
3. Fruit aromas change from fresh to dried, and eventually fade, while the non-fruit aromas (like earthiness or minerality) become more prominent.

In tasting notes, you sometimes see wine aromas described as primary, secondary, or tertiary.  This has to do with #3 above.  Primary aromas come from the fruit itself.  Secondary aromas come from the winemaking process (oak aging, malolactic fermentation, aging on the lees, etc.).  Tertiary aromas come from bottle aging.  In older wines, the primary aromas move to the back seat, and the secondary and tertiary aromas start driving.  For instance, a young Burgundy that is primarily fruity with a hint of earth and sweet spice could potentially age into an amazing Burgundy like the one I tasted a few weeks ago that smelled like incense – seriously, it smelled just like church on Easter.  The fruit character was still there, but muted, and the sweet spice aromas had evolved into an intoxicating incense bouquet.  (This kind of transformation won’t happen every time – just with the best wines under the right conditions – and it will depend on what the original aromas were.)

Back to Burgundy...  Both red and white Burgundies are capable of aging well, as long as they are stored properly (in a cool, dark place, not too dry, and not bumped around too much).  Burgundy's wine regions – also called appellations, AOCs, or AOPs – are divided into a hierarchy.  Grand cru is the top, then premiere, then village, then regional.  Here's a handy list of all the appellations from the BIVB website, which indicates which level in the hierarchy each appellation holds.  For long-term aging (10+ years), focus on appellations at the village level or above.  The Cote de Nuits and Cote de Beaune sub-regions are particularly known for good quality and ageability.  These can be expensive, so if you have less money to spend, a cheaper bottle can still age, just maybe not as long.  Burgundy is one of the increasingly rare regions where the wines are built to age.

I plan to create my own cheat sheet for Burgundy at some point, but for now, check out the one from Wine Folly below.  All those appellation names are what you will look for on the bottles!  (click to enlarge)

You may also want to read:
A little chemistry explains a lot
Is your wine over the hill?
French Wine Cheat Sheet
Chardonnay Cheat Sheet
Pinot Noir Cheat Sheet

Can you get decent wine on an airplane (in economy)?

Ordering a glass of wine in an economy seat on an airplane can be risky if you care about what you drink.  While First Class and Business Class passengers often have a good list to choose from, the main cabin is usually offered “red or white” and you have to take your chances.

On a recent United Airlines flight from Houston to San Diego, I took my chances and was pleasantly surprised.  When I chose “white” I expected an over-oaked, overly-alcoholic Chardonnay fruit bomb.  But actually got a French IGT-level Sauvignon Blanc.  Les Deux Pins Sauvignon Blanc (2012) from the Pays d'Oc region was crisp with a good balance between fruity flavors and minerality.  It had floral and citrus notes (lemon with a bit of orange peel), and a hint of the usual vegetal aromas, but less herbal/grassy impression than the typical New Zealand style.  I'm sure it was chosen for this middle-of-the-road character to please the widest possible audience, which makes sense, and I think the wine achieves this goal.  It's expensive at $8 per glass, but we are talking airplane prices, so maybe not terribly outrageous.

On the flight home I picked “red” with reasonable success.  This time there were 2 different French Cabernet Sauvignons available, both from Pays d'Oc (the same region as the Sauvignon Blanc), and both from 2012. I wasn’t familiar with either of the producers, so I picked at random and got Jean Belmont Cabernet Sauvignon.  It was fairly light and tart for a Cab, though it had typically dark fruit aromas, and moderate acid and tannin.  Again, I assume it was intended to strike a compromise among different red wine tastes, and I think it succeeded.  I poured half the little bottle at a time into my glass plastic cup, and the wine improved as it breathed.  The Cab was also $8.

Though neither of these wines was spectacular, they were perfectly fine and much better than I anticipated. United’s website tells me that Doug Frost, Master Sommelier and Master of Wine, selects United's wines. The list of wines available for First and BusinessFirst passengers is available here, but for Economy I believe the “red or white” selections are unspecified and may change periodically.  I can’t guarantee you’ll have these same choices on your flight, but this has given me hope that an economy class “house” wine can be a pleasant experience!

P.S.  Master Sommelier Andrea Robinson selects wines for Delta’s Business Elite class, but I’m not sure whether she selects the wines for the cheap seats.

P.P.S.  It annoys me that United no longer offers ANY free snacks.  Not even a small bag of pretzels on a 3+ hour flight leaving at lunchtime.  I’m happy to report that Delta has not yet sunk to this level of savagery, and still gives out cookies or pretzels.